Swap H22A JDM On Honda Accord CE7

[Furious]

Hi guys,

i just finished and closed my H22A that will run on my CE7.

I'm still with lots of doubts, so i'm asking help to all of you.

 

Let's specify somting about my car and what will be going in it:

 

Honda Accord CE7

Jhar: 1998

Engine: F18A3 Sohc (1850 16v)

 

New engine:

H22A Jdm (Full complete, NO Transmission) coming from a '95 Imported Prelude.

Intake air system complete From Accord Typer R (H22A7).

Exhaust headers Accord Type-R (H22A7).

 

Transmission:

The new transmission is an M2V5 coming from a 5th gen Prelude (H22A5).

 

ECU:

P13 Jdm

 

 

 

I read a lot of things, even looking in finnish and american forums, that i've to change and add some things (mainly electrical things). I'm asking to you because in the specific, for the Accord CE7 i didn't found nothing. The things i've to understand are:

 

_Engine mounts: What should i use? CE7 or H22? Or hybrid of both?

_Add Solenoid VTEC wire (?)

_Add VTEC oil pressure wire (?)

_Add Intake Air Bypass (IAB) wire (?)

_Add "knock head" wire (?)

_Engine wiring hearness: H22 or F18 wiring hearness?

 

Those are the things i've to know. I hope i'm not forgetting nothing.. If there are other things i should know, any advice is really welcome!

 

Thanks to all of you!:))

[kardynau]

More pictures please! http://www.cosgan.de/images/midi/froehlich/d025.gif

[Furious]

More pictures please! http://www.cosgan.de/images/midi/froehlich/d025.gif

 

Sure!! As soon as i can i'll post all the pictures. :))

[Knobi]

Engine mounts:

Just try the ones that came with your car. If they don't fit, try Prelude mounts. In some cases, you'll have to cut an additional thread in the tranny case.

 

Electrical problem, general: You put an OBD1-engine in an OBD2-car, so most connectors and some wiring will be completely different. Go with the harness of the car and add wires for VTEC and knock sensor. Add an OBD1 conversion harness to run the P13 ecu.

Look at your engine: Where are the TDC- and CKP-sensor located? If they are mounted to the block near the belt pulleys, you'll have to run a Type R or usdm distributor. If not, they're both in the dizzy and a TD-89U (OBD2) would be right. When staying with the F18 harness, TD-89U should fit perfectly, but Type R or OBD1-dizzy would need complete rewiring of the dizzy plug.

For the F18 harness, you'll have to rewire the alternator subharness to make it a perfect fit.

VTEC can be wired with solenoid valve only or both solenoid and oil pressure switch. Most OBD2 cars had no oil pessure switch at all; it's only a control unit and could be shortened to the solenoid wire just behind the ecu connector.

Knock sensors can run two wires or only one. Just depends on the sensor you use. If it's a two-wire-type, one of them simply goes to body ground and acts as shielding only. The main wire would always do the job alone, shielding is not necessary. P13 ecu demands a knock sensor, but if you use a chipped P28 or P72, you'll be fine (and better) without it.

 

If you run Type R intake manifold, there will be no IAB, so you don't need to wire it. But P13 ecu demands IAB and will throw a CEL-light or code without it, so you better go with a chipped P28.

 

When running an OBD1-engine, make sure to use the right OBD1-injectors including the resistor box. Don't run an OBD1-engine with OBD2 injectors (290 cc saturated), or with the right 346 cc peak-and-hold ones without the resistor box. And, for sure, use the fuel pressure regulator that came with the engine, not the one in the car.

 

Transmission is another issue and would lead to far at this point. Every H-, M-, N-, P- or U-tranny will fit every F- and H-engine, and here is a near-complete overview of the different gearings:

http://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/honda-accord-transmission-codes-ratios-2882427/

 

Just depends on your driving habits and the use of the car. As I take it, you better use an LSD with the H22 engine, so M2B4, M2T4, M2Z4, T2T4, T2W4 and U2Q7 would be the ones to choose from.

U2Q7 was the most common LSD-tranny in Europe and is the only one to fit the H22 powerband perfectly without ever dropping VTEC when shifting, but it will rise fuel consumption significantly and might be annoying on long highway trips.

Some of the M-trannys are popular for grinding 5th gear, so make sure to get one with low mileage if choosing so.

The perfect tranny would probably be a combination of several different internals, but they will not always mate perfectly. H-trannies got different bearings and synchros for 1st and 2nd gear. M-trannies sometimes got different LSD-types as U-trannies and won't be interchangeable. Some M- and U-trannies got completely different bearings. So, if you're going to mix gears, we'll have to get deeper into that and need to research profoundly.

Bearbeitet 17. Juni 2015 von Knobi

[Furious]

Engine mounts:

Just try the ones that came with your car. If they don't fit, try Prelude mounts. In some cases, you'll have to cut an additional thread in the tranny case.

 

Electrical problem, general: You put an OBD1-engine in an OBD2-car, so most connectors and some wiring will be completely different. Go with the harness of the car and add wires for VTEC and knock sensor. Add an OBD1 conversion harness to run the P13 ecu.

Look at your engine: Where are the TDC- and CKP-sensor located? If they are mounted to the block near the belt pulleys, you'll have to run a Type R or usdm distributor. If not, they're both in the dizzy and a TD-89U (OBD2) would be right. When staying with the F18 harness, TD-89U should fit perfectly, but Type R or OBD1-dizzy would need complete rewiring of the dizzy plug.

For the F18 harness, you'll have to rewire the alternator subharness to make it a perfect fit.

VTEC can be wired with solenoid valve only or both solenoid and oil pressure switch. Most OBD2 cars had no oil pessure switch at all; it's only a control unit and could be shortened to the solenoid wire just behind the ecu connector.

Knock sensors can run two wires or only one. Just depends on the sensor you use. If it's a two-wire-type, one of them simply goes to body ground and acts as shielding only. The main wire would always do the job alone, shielding is not necessary. P13 ecu demands a knock sensor, but if you use a chipped P28 or P72, you'll be fine (and better) without it.

 

If you run Type R intake manifold, there will be no IAB, so you don't need to wire it. But P13 ecu demands IAB and will throw a CEL-light or code without it, so you better go with a chipped P28.

 

When running an OBD1-engine, make sure to use the right OBD1-injectors including the resistor box. Don't run an OBD1-engine with OBD2 injectors (290 cc saturated), or with the right 346 cc peak-and-hold ones without the resistor box. And, for sure, use the fuel pressure regulator that came with the engine, not the one in the car.

 

Transmission is another issue and would lead to far at this point. Every H-, M-, N-, P- or U-tranny will fit every F- and H-engine, and here is a near-complete overview of the different gearings:

http://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/honda-accord-transmission-codes-ratios-2882427/

 

Just depends on your driving habits and the use of the car. As I take it, you better use an LSD with the H22 engine, so M2B4, M2T4, M2Z4, T2T4, T2W4 and U2Q7 would be the ones to choose from.

U2Q7 was the most common LSD-tranny in Europe and is the only one to fit the H22 powerband perfectly without ever dropping VTEC when shifting, but it will rise fuel consumption significantly and might be annoying on long highway trips.

Some of the M-trannys are popular for grinding 5th gear, so make sure to get one with low mileage if choosing so.

The perfect tranny would probably be a combination of several different internals, but they will not always mate perfectly. H-trannies got different bearings and synchros for 1st and 2nd gear. M-trannies sometimes got different LSD-types as U-trannies and won't be interchangeable. Some M- and U-trannies got completely different bearings. So, if you're going to mix gears, we'll have to get deeper into that and need to research profoundly.

 

Perfect mate, all so clear!!

I'll put the original air intake manifold to be sure.. so i'll have no problems. On a second time i'll put on the atr manifolds, with a chipped p28..

For the moment i stay with my m2v5, it has only 3.5k km, so it's like new..

Only a few last question.

Are those wiring connections easy to do?

Are you 100% sure Accord CE7 is OBD2?

 

Thanks

[Knobi]

Wiring connections can be easy or complicated as fuck, just depends on the way you choose. I wanted to get a perfectly fitting harness with oem-look and opened the whole thing up, which was definiteley the wrong way. Three days of research and work simply not worth it. Better way: Wire VTEC and knock sensor with a separate subharness. Loosen some wires that are only a little too short by partly dismantling the harness, or simple pulling them a litte out. This would not work with the oil pressure sensor on the block, so you need to solder or crimp about 10 cm of additional wire to it. Some plugs are OBD-specific; they can easily be unpinned, but the pins won't snap into the other plug housings. A set of fitting spare pins would be an easy solution, every local Honda dealer should have them. Cutting and soldering will also be okay.

If the F18 alternator harness ist too short to run over the valve cover, try to run it around the left side instead and don't care for the looks. If the Alternator plug doesn't fit the H22 alternator, try the F-alternator and look carefully if the hood still closes without hitting it. This does not work on a CB, but I never tried it on a CE.

Every Honda built from 1997 on should be OBD2. Look for the connector: 6-pin inside the glove box is OBD2, 2-pin under dashboard on passenger side is OBD1.

Maybe there is no OBD1/2 distributor issue, as some Hondas always stayed with the older dizzy wiring (Civic did so until 2001). 10-pin single plug is OBD2, 8-pin plug and separate 2-pin plug for coil wiring is OBD1. One of the smaller pins stays unwired in all euro-versions, but was wired as rev meter output in US.

[Furious]

Wiring connections can be easy or complicated as fuck, just depends on the way you choose. I wanted to get a perfectly fitting harness with oem-look and opened the whole thing up, which was definiteley the wrong way. Three days of research and work simply not worth it. Better way: Wire VTEC and knock sensor with a separate subharness. Loosen some wires that are only a little too short by partly dismantling the harness, or simple pulling them a litte out. This would not work with the oil pressure sensor on the block, so you need to solder or crimp about 10 cm of additional wire to it. Some plugs are OBD-specific; they can easily be unpinned, but the pins won't snap into the other plug housings. A set of fitting spare pins would be an easy solution, every local Honda dealer should have them. Cutting and soldering will also be okay.

If the F18 alternator harness ist too short to run over the valve cover, try to run it around the left side instead and don't care for the looks. If the Alternator plug doesn't fit the H22 alternator, try the F-alternator and look carefully if the hood still closes without hitting it. This does not work on a CB, but I never tried it on a CE.

Every Honda built from 1997 on should be OBD2. Look for the connector: 6-pin inside the glove box is OBD2, 2-pin under dashboard on passenger side is OBD1.

Maybe there is no OBD1/2 distributor issue, as some Hondas always stayed with the older dizzy wiring (Civic did so until 2001). 10-pin single plug is OBD2, 8-pin plug and separate 2-pin plug for coil wiring is OBD1. One of the smaller pins stays unwired in all euro-versions, but was wired as rev meter output in US.

 

 

Perfect i've to check where is the connector but i'm sure there is no connector in the glove box.. For The dizzy wiring i've seen there is no problem :D

So the big work will be electrical.. I hope i'll have no problems, anyway i'll will post some photos when i'll finish the job and if i'll run into some problems i'll write here!

Thanks!!!